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Posted By admin On 28/12/21

For a professional to accurately diagnose their client’s skin type and condition, they must fully understand the basics: the basics of how skin functions, what is going on in the live layers of the skin, and if the conditions you are seeing are from self-inflicted bad habits. Skin types are determined mostly from genetics and the size of the sebaceous gland. Skin conditions are also determined from genetics, as well as hormones and environmental factors.

Skin Types

The importance of skin testing prior to hair colouring It is important that all our clients undergo a simple colour sensitivity test at least 48 hours prior to their first time colour application, or if they have not had colour with us for more than three months.Skin testing is here to protect you.Just pop into the salon and ask for a skin test. Acute Skin Problems. Many skin problems are temporary and can be treated with medications or simply with time. Learn more here. Cold Sores Cold sores - also called fever blisters - are a painful.

Skin type is the description of how and why your skin looks, feels and behaves as it does. The four most common skin types used in the cosmetic/skin care industry are:

  1. Normal: This skin type displays a smooth texture and a rosy, clear surface, with fine pores. There are no visible blemishes, greasy patches or flaky areas. Sebum production, moisture content, keratinisation and desquamation are well-balanced. Normal skin is often found in young persons.
  2. Oily: Skin of this type is characterized by an increased amount of lipids on the skin surface due to overactive sebaceous glands. It is shiny and thick, often with enlarged pores. Oily skin is prone to blackheads and other blemishes. It occurs more often in men than in women, and it predominantly affects adolescents and younger persons.
  3. Dry: Characterized by a lack of moisture in its corneous layer, dry skin results in tightness and even flaking. The skin appears dull, especially on the cheeks and around the eyes. It may lack elasticity, with accentuated fine lines and wrinkles. In more severe cases, itching and burning may occur. Extremely dry skin shows signs of cracking and fissuring.
  4. Combination: Combination skin is rather dry in some parts of the body and oily in other localizations. Mixed facial skin tends toward dryness on the cheeks and around the eyes while being oily in the t-zone (nose, forehead, chin). The dry parts and the oily parts require different skin care regimens.

First, skin type is not always the same. The variations that are taking place in your skin cannot only change season to season but month to month and even weekly. Normal, oily, dry and combination are good basics to start out with, but they still do not cover every nuance. They can change and fluctuate with everything from the weather to stress levels. Why is finding out what skin type your client has important? Because different skin types require different formulations. Even though many skin types may need the same active ingredients (such as sunscreen agents, antioxidants, cell-communicating and so on), the base and delivery agents (lotion, cream, gel, serum or liquid) should correlate with the needs of your clients skin type.

What influences skin type? Almost anything and everything can influence skin type, which is why it can be tricky to detect a single skin type to what you see under the magnification lamp when examining clients. Both external and internal elements can impact the way skin looks and feels. To effectively evaluate your client’s skin and determine the correct skin care routine, here are some of the factors that need to be considered.

Internal Influences:

  • Hormonal changes (Menopause, pregnancy and menstrual cycles can cause the skin to fluctuate from oily to breakouts, skin discoloration and dryness.)
  • Skin disorders (rosacea, dermatitis, psoriasis)
  • Genetic predisposition
  • Medications
  • Diet (Research shows a diet high in antioxidants and omega-3 can improve the appearance of skin.)

External Influences:

  • Climate/weather (cold, warm, moist, dry)
  • Skin care routine (Routines such as over-exfoliating, over-moisturizing, or using irritating/drying ingredients can create skin problems that were not there before.)
  • Sun exposure (major cause of hyperpigmentation)
  • Pollution (creates free radical activity that damages collagen)
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Skin Conditions

When performing skin analysis, it is easy to identify obvious skin issues. Everyone has a skin type classification; however, not everyone has a skin condition. There is a distinct difference between type and condition. Conditions occur in many different skin types and include dehydration, dryness, sun damage, hyperpigmentation, telangiectasia, wrinkles and acne, among other skin conditions.

Indicators of dehydration are visible fine lines and feeling of tight skin. When it is determined that a client’s skin is experiencing dehydration, which is a condition verses a dry skin type, the professional can then decide a plan of action. A service focusing on correcting the dehydration through light exfoliation would be the best treatment option. Using a gentle enzyme exfoliator will digest the dead skin cells along with allowing the treatment products to absorb more efficiently in the skin. A hyaluronic acid based serum with a rich antioxidant moisturizer is best to recommend for daily use.

Sun Damage/Hyperpigmentation
Sun damage and over-exposure to harmful sun rays can usually cause hyperpigmentation. Pigmentation is not always visible to the naked eye. Deeper pigmentation can be seen through a Wood’s lamp. Another form of hyperpigmentation is a pregnancy mask, which is a common hormonally determined example of hyperpigmentation that often occurs during pregnancy and worsens with sun exposure. To start, consistently apply a well formulated sunscreen to treat skin with sun damage and hyperpigmentation. Next, a low percentage chemical exfoliation should be applied daily, followed by a series of stronger chemical peels administered by a well-trained aesthetician. And finally, applying a serum containing lightening ingredients, such as the chemical compound known as hydroquinone 2% can be effective and safe. However, due to the controversy behind this ingredient it is imperative that a skin care professional oversee its application and progress. For clients who are interested in an alternative to hydroquinone, a vitamin C serum is a great option – keeping in mind that vitamin C is likely to oxidize if not properly contained in
airless packaging.

Fine Lines and Wrinkles
How the skin ages and wrinkles is a very complicated process that involves an almost limitless range of physiological occurrences. There is not one cause that can be addressed with a product to erase the inevitable, because the aging process itself is so complex. Skin, by itself, ages in many ways. There is not one “miracle” ingredient to stop this natural process. Years of extrinsic factors (sun damage, pollution, free radical damage, smoking, et cetera) and intrinsic factors (genetics, chronological aging, change of hormones, immune’s suppression, et cetera) combine and culminate what we define as aging skin. The good news is that there is hope to diminish the appearance of aging and even slow the process with the right treatments, home care regimens and simple lifestyle changes. The time to detect how serious a new client is about accomplishing their skin care goals is during their initial consultation. Create a plan of action, with an end in mind, for the dedicated clients that are committed and willing to take your professional advice on how to reverse and prevent the signs of aging. Make sure to have clear communication between yourself and the client concerning their desired results. Planning a series of professional treatments based on the depth of damage in the skin is a great way to start. If your client is experiencing deep wrinkles with a loss of elasticity and sun damage, recommend a series of chemical peels, preferably a combination of glycolic and lactic acid. Gradually move up in strength to build the skin’s tolerance. For the concern of deep wrinkles and loss of elasticity, recommend the correct formulations for their skin type; but you will find the same active ingredients will be the same for the skin condition. Ingredients that will improve the skin’s structure are peptides, retinol, vitamin C, and hyaluronic, glycolic and lactic acid. Explain that a series of treatments will be extremely beneficial but that the client will have to be accountable for consistently treating her skin at home. Consistence is key when following a home care regimen and actually wanting results. Would you go to the dentist every six months, not brush your teeth daily, and expect the health of your teeth to be top notch? No you would not. It is our job as skin care professionals to educate clients on this same concept in regards to skin.

Acne occurs when the pores of the skin become clogged, most often on the face, neck, back and chest. Dermatologist and researchers do not know exactly why this happens, but we do know that testosterone plays a part, as does heredity. Once a pore becomes clogged, it traps skin oil inside. Bacteria grows in this oil and can cause an inflammatory response in the skin. Acne lesions can be small and hardly noticeable, appear as a small whitehead or blackhead, or can appear red with a white/yellow center. Sometimes a clogged pore will become so inflamed that it can lead to larger, more painful lesions (nodules or cysts), which can ultimately scar. Working with clients that are experiencing acne can be a very sensitive topic and can even affect self-esteem. As a skin care professional, approaching this condition with a positive, understanding attitude will take you far when building client/professional trust. Recommend a series of salicylic acid peels to clear the pores of sebum, dirt and bacteria. Acne clients are typically an oily skin type and should be using lightweight ingredients that will not clog their pores. Ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, retinol and sulfur work beautifully in clearing current blemishes and preventing future acne lesions.
Dealing with different skin types and conditions on a daily basis will reinforce just how complex the largest organ of the body is and how there is not just one answer for each skin type. It takes trial and error. Never give up hope on improving a stubborn condition. Never assume the client you see on a consistent basis will have the same skin type as their last visit.

Kristina Valiani is a licensed aesthetician and educator for a leading skin care brand. Valiani conducts professional training courses in addition to teaching continuing education classes for aestheticians around the nation.
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Persuading hair and beauty clients to have an allergy skin test is tricky.

So tricky, that over 70% of salon and mobile businesses are skipping them, according to a recent survey by BABTAC.

Yet with lawyers offering no-win no-fee personal injury claims and insurers becoming more rigorous, surely they are a no-brainer?

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In this blog post I’m not looking at why you should insist on an allergy skin test – there is plenty of information out there from product manufacturers. Rather I’m looking at how you persuade salon clients that your insistence on a skin test is:

  • Because you care.
  • Because you are a professional.
  • Because you are a trusted advisor.

It all comes down to salon marketing. And a bit of conjuring.

With a sleight of hand it’s possible to magic the irksome test into a positive client experience.

Cast a marketing eye over allergy skin tests

You understand why it’s sensible to have an allergy skin test.

But your clients don’t.

They see it as inconvenient and unnecessary. An extra trip to your salon is a nuisance and difficult to fit into their hectic lives.

Worse, many clients view skin tests as something a salon does “to cover your back”. They feel it’s you being fussy. And of no real benefit to them.

So here’s how to turn this tiresome irritation into a vote winner.

(And yes, it is possible).

1. Solid marketing foundations pay dividends

First accept that some groundwork is called for. You can’t expect clients’ views to magically change overnight.

2. Don’t dodge the allergy test issue

No-one wants to be told last minute that they must visit the salon before their eyebrow tint or colour service.


Tempting as it can be, don’t be coy, and don’t beat around the bush. The sooner allergy testing is raised the sooner you can start to convert it into a salon positive.

So educate your team to be upfront about skin testing and why it is so important for their client’s safety.

3. Marketing toolkit for allergy skin testing

Understandably many hair and beauty professionals hesitate about broaching skin tests to their clients.

Make life easier for your team by providing clear information in easy-to-understand terms explaining the value of the test to the client.

3 ways to promote this tricky subject…

  1. How about a salon blog post explaining the potential hazards to clients and reassuring them about ease and effectiveness of testing? It’s also somewhere for your team to refer clients for more detailed allergy information.
  2. Now promote this article on your e-newsletter a couple of times a year and on your social media. Adopt a professional, rational tone of voice. Your marketing message is that you’re a caring, trusted salon who put your clients’ wellbeing and safety first. Your hair and beauty business is different. You stand out from the crowd.
  3. Endorse this marketing message with in-salon literature for your team to use. Weave the skin test message into a client leaflet packed with professional tips and tricks on maintaining your hair colour/fake tan for longer at home. It all reinforces your role as an expert and trusted hair and beauty advisor.

4. Take a positive approach to salon skin tests

  • Train your hair and beauty team to be helpful and encouraging. To talk about allergic reactions and the skin test in an honest and straightforward way to clients, then focus on the peace of mind it gives.
  • Words matter. Clients do not want to hear that “it is company policy” or “I don’t know why we bother doing these skin tests”. Get your team on-side.
  • Put the client emphasis firmly on their wellbeing and safety being paramount. Explain that as an experienced hair or beauty professional you would always have a test yourself before any colour service. A personal endorsement goes a very long way in reassuring clients as to the value of the allergy test.
  • Keep your language upbeat and positive. It’s complimentary. It’s quick. It’s painless.

5. Support your salon team with skin testing advice

Your team are in the frontline and appreciate guidance and support:

  • Educate stylists and therapists about the science behind allergic reactions and why a skin test is a sensible precaution. This gives them the confidence to speak with authority to clients and handle any awkward allergy questions.
  • Clients often feel the inconvenient (for them) skin test is for your benefit only. A back-covering exercise. To counter this, suggest your team talk about your salon’s ethos and the importance of client wellbeing and safety over profit.
  • We want clients to feel they are in safe professional hands. So remind your team to use clients’ names when discussing the test and remember to think about body language. This blog post is worth a read if you’re interested in learning more on salon body language.

6. Turn a necessity into a marketing opportunity

Okay, persuading someone to traipse into town for a 5 minute salon visit is not an easy sell, I’ll admit.


So what can you do to make it more enticing?

Wrap it up with some “What’s in it for me” and hey presto it seems less of a chore.

Salon marketing case study

Let’s look at a brand new client to the salon who wants to book in for a cut and colour. You’re worried (understandably) that insisting on a pre-appointment skin test will result in them cancelling.

Give this a go. Offer them a freebie 15 minute appointment for an in-depth colour consultation to meet their stylist, discuss what they want to achieve with their colour, chat about their hair condition and drop in that’ll you’ll also include a complimentary skin test at this consultation. This sounds much more like you care about them and are genuinely concerned they are wowed by their salon experience.

Accepted, you can’t take this approach for quick services like brow tints. Two salon marketing suggestions here:

  • Be flexible and let them pop in at a time to suit them, without making a fixed appointment, for the skin test or
  • If you want to sweeten the pill for a loyal high spending salon client offer a complimentary gel/Shellac removal at the same time or a quick file and polish to ensure they do make the effort to come in.

7. Show clients allergy testing is important

Finally, let clients see you making up your records. It shows them that you take skin testing and their well-being seriously. It confirms you as a hair and beauty professional.

And don’t forget black henna tattoos and allergy testing…

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If you’re reviewing your salon skin testing approach then it might be helpful to read this useful post on the allergy problems black henna tattoos can cause.